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List Price : $39.99 Price : $34.37
Product Description
This fully automatic microprocessor controlled 6 ampere fast charge charger monitors battery condition and adjusts charge rate downward to prevent battery damage. Perfect for car, small truck, motorcycle, lawn tractor lead-acid and AGM batteries. A 4 ampere medium charge has a self-adjusting charge rate ideal for everyday charging needs and keeping your battery in peak condition. The 2 ampere slow charge is great for charging and maintaining small batteries; charges motorcycle, ATV, snowmobile and lawn tractor batteries. The auto voltage detection means the charger automatically determines whether the connected battery is a 6 volt battery or a 12 volt battery.
- 6 ampere engine start for emergency starting
- Self-adjusting, variable charge rates for everyday charging needs and maintaining your battery in peak condition
- Charges and automatically desulfates and restores car, truck, RV, farm equipment, AGM, gel cell and deep-cycle batteries
- 6 ampere fast charge and 2 ampere slow charge
- The charger automatically determines whether the connected battery is a 6 volt battery or a 12 volt battery
More About Schumacher XC6 SpeedCharge 6 Amp Battery Charger
If you wake up at the morning to consider your car battery dead, your car might be suffering from a parasitic battery leak. When a car battery will go dead overnight, there are often 2 reasons: the battery is extremely old and ought to be replaced, or you left something on your car on, being a light. If neither of those previous 2 possibilities appear to be true, then something else is drawing power from one the cars battery. Car professionals call this a parasitic draw, and it can cause the same dead battery as leaving the cars headlights on overnight.What specifically is parasitic draw?, youre most likely asking now. All vehicles draw some power from one their batteries, even though they're shut off, simply because some car accessories (clocks, radios remote door openers, alarms) always need a power source. The normal power employed when a vehicle is off is called the parasitic draw. This is actually a really low draw, in order that it doesn't run the cars battery down. NOTE: Some car owners install additional car accessories, such as shortwave radios, and plug in things like invertors & portable refrigerators. Then, they operate these too long with no the engine running, Which can drain a cars batteries so low its engine is not going to start. An electrical short at the vehicle or a malfunctioning accessory can draw a considerably higher compared to normal load, resulting in a drained battery. For example, simply leaving a car door open all night, Using the inside lights on, can often drain the battery dead.
The initial step in accessing the cause of your dead battery would be to test for a main short. To do this, eliminate the positive and negative cables in one the batteries, and put an Ohm-meter across them. If its reading is close to 0 Ohms then the battery has a direct short. You must trace the nature of the short prior to you can perform these tests.
Tools you will Need For This Job:
Safety goggles & gloves
A digital multimeter or ammeter
capable of reading as much as 10 amps DC for $15-$50.
A fuse puller or pliers.
All tools needed to access battery and fuse panel(s).
The Owners' Manual showing the cars electrical circuits.
Steps to locate & Repair A Parasitic Drain
A parasitic drain is when an electrical device uses battery power, even though the car is closed Using the ignition removed. So, its quite important, when performing the steps below, to make confident ALL LOADS seem to be TURNED OFF: dome lights, under hood light, trunk light, empty cigarette lighter, keys removed, etc.. Once all power sources seem to be off, the 1st thing you need to do is PUT on your SAFETY GOGGLES & GLOVES.
Carefully eliminate the negative side battery cable from one the negative battery terminal. Disconnect the thick confident (Red) cable that will go down to the starter. Connect the black wire in to the com input, along along with other the red wire to the 10A or 20A input, on the multimeter. Your battery need to take a reasonable charge (not be fully dead) for this test to work. IE. If your dome light operates, the battery has enough charge in it. If the battery doesn't have enough charge left, put a charger about the batteries overnight. For this test to work, the meter have to read no less than 2-5 amps . NOTE: do not connect the red wire into the mA input on the multimeter, as This may damage the meter.
making use of the multimeters instructions, set the dial on it to measure Amps. make sure your meter is set into the 10 amp DC range. Some meters take a special connector for the red probe when you may well be reading current. If the meter has one jack for high amps and one for low amps, ensure the meter end of the probe is at the right connector. Connect the multimeter between the negative cable along with the negative battery post. Connect the negative probe into the red cable which is still connected to the vehicle. guarantee this cable and your probe don't touch ground. Wait towards the car to go into sleep mode (a few seconds to many minutes). NOTE: When you make contact With all the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up. Within several minutes, they systems go back to "sleep again.
do this next step by holding the meter probes to their respective contact points (there should be no shock from one only 12 volts). it is possible to use probes along with other alligator clips to hold them in place. Connect the confident probe to the battery - either battery is fine, given that they're connected together by the black, negative wires. (Polarity does not matter on digital meters simply because they're autosensing.) If the ammeter reads above 25-50 milliamps, something at the car is using at the same time significantly battery power, resulting in a battery drain. A critical current draw (above 10 amps) will either pop a fuse on your meter or destroy it. So, you must TEST to get a SHORT. Otherwise, your meter should now be reading the current drain in your battery. If the vehicle comes with other an alarm system or remote locks, the power draw might still be around 2-3 amps for a few minutes, even after the doors seem to be all closed. This very is normal, but wait no less than 20 minutes after the last door is closed prior to you take a reading. If almost everything is normal, the meter will read much less compared to 35 milliamps (.035 amps). If the current drain is higher than that, discover what exactly is draining your batteries.
discover the cars fuse panel (under the dashboard). eliminate every fuse, one at a time. The purpose of This is to observe the ammeter after pulling every one. Start by pulling fuses until the load should go away. If doing this does not decrease the battery draw, look to get a wire which is corroded or frayed. NOTE: significant fuses have higher amp ratings, so pull those last. Repeat this step for all relays in the fuse panel as well. If relay contacts fail to release, This would also result in a battery drain.
Watch the ammeter for any drop to an acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain significantly is the battery draw. Consult the cars owners' or service manual to locate what circuits seem to be powered by that fuse.
Check every circuit connected to that fuse individually. IE. Turn off every light, heater, etc. before you find the drain. NOTE: If there appear to be multiple shorts in the vehicle, it might take awhile to do these tests.
When you find and repair the car batterys parasitic drain, repeat steps 1&2 to test the repair. The ammeter will read the exact numbers.
Final Notes & Warnings For All DIY Car Enthusiasts
Check at the cars cigarette lighter and power sockets for coins that may well fall in and short circuits. After-market alarm systems may make testing also long and LOUD. In that case, you must seek professional help fix the cars parasitic battery drain. In several models later compared to 2003, disconnecting the battery resets the PCM, And this requires the modules to relearn. Sometimes, this requires a factory scan tool. Take these cars to a dealer or auto electrical systems professional.
To do a parasitic draw test in a dual battery system, when you might have an electric winch, rewire the truck temporarily as two separate circuits, you to definitely the winch and one to the truck. each and every have to then be checked independently for shorts. always use caution when working along with other any cars electrical system. You have to BE certain that the changes designed to the electrical system of the vehicle seem to be within its boundaries. IE. All fuses appear to be back at the right places, and with their correct amperage, when adding or changing anything electrical.
Schumacher XC6 SpeedCharge 6 Amp Battery Charger Reviews
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